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What to Upgrade on an Old Tormek & What to Keep As Is |
I purchased my Tormek in 2002, and am still using the same machine. Now that you are also an owner of an old Tormek, you should consider what you might do to make it even better. As Robert Pirsig outlined in his masterpiece, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, each of these slight improvements will make the machine different, and better.
There is also a reference to the known Tormek parts below so that you can know what you may have gotten.
Pictures are shown for the parts. You can click on any of the pictures and see a larger version of it.
The original shaft may be in bad shape due to disuse or poor storage methods. Replacing it with the newer stainless steel shaft which also has the EzyLock nut is a definite improvement. That part is
First, remove the shaft from the machine. You can remove the honing wheel and then pull the shaft out from the other side. The grindstone does not have to be removed to do this.
This is recommended as the machine was not designed for a lot of jockeying around to remove the nut on the end of the shaft, and it is best to minimize damage by doing this.
Sometimes, removing the nut from the old shaft may be difficult. Try some penetrating oil or other means to losten it before taking to using a hammer on the end of your wrench. When you do use a hammer, a dead blow is recommended.
By the way, I don't think I would try to loosen the rust using a torch.
If the shaft is damaged badly (or bent), replace it with the MSK-250. I believe the new drive shaft comes with new nylon bearings. If not, I recommend you also replace the old ones.
The original grindstone may be also in poor shape (or you may break it when trying to remove the old shaft). There is a great debate on which grindstone / grinding wheel is best, but I advise to stay with the tried and true original one until you become comfortable using the Tormek.
If you do need to replace it, this web page outlines the varous Tormek options. Some basic ideas are:
Behind the honing wheel is the drive wheel. The original ones were plastic with a rubberized edge which engaged with the motor's shaft.
If it is glazed over and slips on the motor, very lightly sand it to remove the glazing. This is usually all that is needed.
If the wheel or wheel's edge is damaged, you should replace it. The newer one is a metal wheel and much stoughter. That part is
Usually, the water trough is not in bad shape. But if you need to replace it, the newer model is much nicer. That part is
Usually, the original USB had both legs as smooth rods. These work fine, but at some time, consider adding the newer one. That part is
The micro adjust makes a lot of operations much easier, especially retruing the grindstone.
Do not discard the old USB; re-purpose it. You can add a 12mm collar to it and have it set for a single purpose for use on the diamond grinding wheels.
I have two which are set at the A and B holes on the TTS-100. These make resharping woodturning tools quite easy and fast.
I have another which has an SVD-110 tool rest permanently attached to it. This makes resharpening scrapers easy and fast.
Also note,
These are listed alphabetically, not by any choice or other preference. Where they are grouped together, it is because they are related in use.
ACC-150 ACC-150 Anti-Corrosion Concentrate - this is the stuff you add to the water when using the diamond grinding wheels. Some people recommend other additives, but for the cost of the wheels, I use this. ACC-150 is needed as the Tormek wheels are made from steel not aluminium. It also provides some rust protection for the blade’s steel being sharpened. |
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EM-15 EM-15 Edge Marker - These work. I just use Sharpies, especially as I prefer the red ones. |
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PA-70 PA-70 Honing Compound - this is used with the leather honing wheels. There are some who advocate using other compounds, but this one has been used by many sharpeners for years and works quite well. It does break down with use, so you need to re-charge the honing wheel periodically. Do note that when it is “dried up” on the wheel (white like icing on a cake), it still works quite well. Do not over apply it as it is not needed and is a waste of money. As the old ad noted, "a dab will do ya". |
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PL-01 PL-01 Profile Labels - These are used for noting the machine setups for the jigs used. A label is wrapped around the tool's collar, providing an easy reference when resharpening the tool. They are very useful. Alternatively, you can use a label making machine to record the tool’s setup. |
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PP-10 PP-10 Profile Pen - this is used with the PL-01 lables. Or, you can use a different permanet marker such as a Sharpie Ultra Fine marker (it just will not have the cool Tormek logo on it). |
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SP-650 SP-650 Stone Grader - this is used to re-grade the SG-250 or SG-200 Original Grindstone. Some say that it does not work as well on the SB-250 black grindstone. There is a debate on whether this should be used on the SJ-250 or SJ-200 Japanese Waterstone. The concern seems to be that the SP-650 will leave grit on the SJ-250, causing it to not work as expected. |
These are listed alphabetically, not by any choice or other preference. Where they are grouped together, it is because they are related in use.
Over time, as the leather honing wheels are used, they will blacken and become quite smooth. This does not impact their ability to work (I believe it makes them better). So, unless the leather on the wheel is damaged, there is not a need to replace it.
Regarding maintenance of the leather honing wheels,
LA-100 LA-100 Profiled Leather Honing Wheel - This is the original leather honing wheel used for honing the inside edges of curved tools (e.g., gouges). It was replaced by LA-120, but I would not replace it; the LA-100 works quite well. The picture to the right shows a new wheel. As noted above, the leather on these will become much darker with age. The extension shaft and washers are supplied with this. The locking nut/knob holding the honing wheel to the grinder is reused to hold this in place. This was replaced by LA-120 which has some improvements, such as the ability to swap out the discs, including with ones which have different profiles. |
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LA-120 LA-120 Profiled Leather Honing Wheel - This is used for honing the inside edges of curved tools (e.g., gouges). There is supposedly an LA-121 Profiled Leather Honing Wheel with narrow discs which is similar to the LA-120; only the leather discs are narrower (the LA-124). 
LA-124 discs LA-122 replacement discs - these are the replacement discs for the LA-120. LA-124 narrow profiled replacement discs - these are the replacement discs for the LA-121. The extension shaft and washers are supplied with this. The locking nut/knob holding the honing wheel to the grinder is reused to hold this in place. |
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LA-145 LA-145 Leather Honing Wheel (200 mm) - this is used on the 200 mm machines (SuperGrind 1200, T3, & T-4). The picture to the right shows a new wheel. As noted above, the leather on these will become much darker with age. When putting this onto the machine, hold it firmly in place and then rotate it around until it "clicks" into place. There are studs on the inside face of this wheel which engage with the drive wheel. Once the two are engaged together, then add the locking nut/knob for the honing wheel. When this wheel is made and the leather is adhered to the wheel, it will sometimes have a bump where the two ends come together. This does not impact the wheel’s use; however it can be removed with sandpaper if you are annoyed by it. |
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LA-220 LA-220 Leather Honing Wheel (250 mm) - this is the honing wheel used on the 250 mm machines (SuperGrind 2000, T-7, & T-8) The picture to the right shows a new wheel. As noted above, the leather on these will become much darker with age. When putting this onto the machine, hold it firmly in place and then rotate it around until it "clicks" into place. There are studs on the inside face of this wheel which engage with the drive wheel. Once the two are engaged together, then add the locking nut/knob for the honing wheel. When this wheel is made and the leather is adhered to the wheel, it will sometimes have a bump where the two ends come together. This does not impact the wheel’s use; however it can be removed with sandpaper if you are annoyed by it. |
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CW-220 CW-220 Composite Honing Wheel - this is not a replacement for the LA-220; rather it is a different approach. If you don't like the mess of the PA-70 honing compound when using the LA-220, consider this. (This works on the 250 mm machines (SuperGrind 2000, T-7, & T-8)). When putting this onto the machine, hold it firmly in place and then rotate it around until it "clicks" into place. There are studs on the inside face of this wheel which engage with the drive wheel. Once the two are engaged together, then add the locking nut/knob for the honing wheel. One user has noted that alcohol (e.g., isopropyl alcohol) can be used to clean the CW-220 wheel’s surface. Do not use a good whiskey: that is simply a waste. Some advocate that the leather honing wheel with the PA-70 works better to produce a finely honed edge. Both are similar, so it's more about which one you prefer. |
These are listed alphabetically, not by any choice or other preference. Where they are grouped together, it is because they are related in use.
AX-40 AX-40 Axe Jig - this is the new one. This jig replaced the SVA-170, and is a really nice improvement. |
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SVA-170 SVA-170 Axe Jig - I used the SVA-170 for years and, though it seems simplistic, it does work well. I would keep this one as there may be a tool you sharpen where this works better than other jigs. This was replaced by AX-40 which is vastly superior. |
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KJ-45 KJ-45 Centering Knife Jig - this is the new model. It works quite well, especially for thicker knives. This is one of the significant improvents over the SVM-45 as it keeps the blade centered and does not result in the grind on one side being wider than the other side (assumming the sharpener does a good job). There is also a bottom stop (the smaller bumps on the shaft) which allows for:
This jig works quite well with the KS-123 Knife Angle Setter. |
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KJ-140 KJ-140 Wide Centering Knife Jig - this is also the new jig. As with the KJ-45, it works well for thicker knives. This is one of the significant improvents over the SVM-140 as it keeps the blade centered and does not result in the grind on one side being wider than the other side (assumming the sharpener does a good job). I like using this jig with knives which have flexible blades (e.g., some old butcher knives I inherited from my late grandfather). The wide grip helps hold the blade well. There is also a bottom stop (the smaller bumps on the shaft) which allows for adding a convex shape to the blade’s edge (as desired by many carvers). This jig works quite well with the KS-123 Knife Angle Setter. |
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KJ-45 KS-123 Knife Angle Setter - This accessory (not a jig) was designed to work with the KJ-45 and KJ-140 knife jigs. It is a very useful accessory for setting angles when sharpening knives. Where the KS-123 really shines is when your sharpening process has you swapping out grindstones (e.g., starting with the SG-250 Original Grindstone, and then swapping out to use use the SJ-250 Japanese Waterstone). Using the KS-123, it is quite easy to reset the USB so that the desired grind angle is achieved. You could choose to:
Keep the manual for the KS-123 in the drawer with it for a while until you get the hang of using this device. It is not hard to use; rather, it is just different than you might expect. Once you get it's use ingrained in your brain, you will realize the beauty it presents to the process. |
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RBS-140 RBS-140 Round Blade Sharpening Attachment - this is used to sharpen rotary blades used in cooking. It is only for the T-2 machine. |
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SVM-00 with knife SVM-00 Small Knife Jig - this comes in quite handy for sharpening short blades, such as those on seen on marking knives. |
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SVM-45 SVM-45 Knife Jig - this was replaced by the KJ-45. I still use mine for sharpening other stuff like gardening tools. Earlier versions of this jig had longer handles (the black part which looks like a top hat in the picture to the right). These were around 110 mm (4 ⅜”) long. Later versions had a smaller handles which were around 50 mm (2”) long. This was replaced by KJ-45 which has some very nice improvements. |
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SVM-100 SVM-100 Long Knife Jig - this was replaced by KJ-140. As with the SVM-45, it is still useful though. I believe all these jigs had longer handles (the black part which looks like a top hat in the picture to the right). These were around 110 mm (4 ⅜”) long. I am pretty sure this jig was no longer made when the smaller handles came about. This is due to the SVM-140 being the recommended replacement at that time. This was replaced by KJ-140 which has some very nice improvements. |
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SVM-140 SVM-140 Long Knife Jig - this was also replaced by KJ-140. As with the SVM-45, it is still useful though. I like using this jig with knives which have flexible blades (e.g., some old butcher knives I inherited from my late grandfather). The wide grip helps hold the blade well. Earlier versions of this jig had longer handles (the black part which looks like a top hat in the picture to the right). These were around 110 mm (4 ⅜”) long. Later versions had a smaller handles which were around 50 mm (2”) long. This was replaced by KJ-140 which has some very nice improvements. |
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SE-76 SE-76 Square Edge Jig - this is an older model which has been replaced by the SE-77. It is still quite good, and you should keep it. With a fixed head which does not support cambering of the blades, this may be easier to use than the SE-77 for sharpening some tools. Consider also getting an SQ-90 Small Square accessory.This was replaced by SE-77 which has some very nice improvements. |
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SE-77 SE-77 Square Edge Jig - this is the newest model. It is really good, especially if you need to add a camber to the blade's edge (e.g., on plane blades). Consider also getting an SQ-90 Small Square accessory. |
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SVD-110 SVD-110 Tool Rest - this is greatly useful for sharpening certain woodturning tools such as skews and scrapers. It is also a platform used with a number of 3D-printed jigs. |
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SVD-180 SVD-180 Gouge Jig - this is the original gouge jig, and was replaced by SVD-185 (which has been also replaced). Keep it though: you can lock it into a fixed position for quick use (e.g., setup for the bowl gouge). This approach is one advocated by Glen Lucas where he puts a coloured tape on the gouge which matches the coloured tape on the respective gouge jig. There is an SVD-005 upgrade kit which added the ability to sharpen carbide cutters to jig. Rather than purchasing this, purchase the SVD-186-R which includes those parts. This was replaced by SVD-186-R which has some very nice improvements. |
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SVD-185 SVD-185 Gouge Jig - this jig replaced the SVD-180 and included the parts for sharpening carbide cutters. It was replaced by the SVD-186. As with the SVD-180, keep it. Also, if you sharpen carbide bits (e.g., for hollowing rigs), you can dedicate this jig to that purpose. The big improvement with the SVD-185 was the additional capabilities for sharpening carbide cutters such as those used in hollowing tools. This was replaced by SVD-186-R which has some very nice improvements. |
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SVD-186 SVD-186 Gouge Jig - this was a great improvement over the SVD-185 due to the click-stops for the jig settings. These click-stops make setting the jig up faster and more consistent when making changes. This was replaced by SVD-186-R which has some very nice improvements for sharpening on the side of the diamond grinding wheels. |
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SVD-186-R SVD-186-R Gouge Jig - this is the newest model. It added functionality for easier use when grinding on the side of the grinding wheel (i.e., when using the MB-100 or MB-102). That is the purpose for the added thumb screw. |
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SVH-60 SVH-60 Straight Edge Jig - this was replaced by the SE-77; however do not get rid of it. This jig is great for tools which are short (e.g., chisels which have been ground down quite a ways). I use it often when resharpening chisels which were passed down to me from my grandfather and father. This was replaced by SE-77 which has some very nice improvements. |
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SVH-320 SVH-320 Planer Blade Attachment - this is the only model. I have not used it; however those who have note that it works well. You need to ensure you have the type of planer blades which can be resharpened. Some planers use blades which are disposable and can only be replaced (not resharpened). |
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SVP-80 SVP-80 Moulding Knife Attachment - this is the only model. I have not used it. |
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SVS-32 & SVS-38 SVS-32 Short Tool Jig - this was replaced by the SVS-38, but is still quite useful. The picture to the right of my SVS-32 (left) and SVS-38 (right) makes it seem like they are the same size, but the SVS-32 accommodates a 32 mm wide tool, whilst the SVS-38 accommodates a 38 mm wide tool.The SVS-32 was replaced by SVS-38 which accommodates wider tools. |
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SVS-38 SVS-38 Short Tool Jig - this is the newest model. It is a simple jig, but is quite useful for sharpening (and especially for honing) short tools such as carving tools. This jig works well for gouges and other tools like veiners, V-tools, & small chisels. |
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SVS-50 Multi-Jig - this is the only model. I recommend you purchase an extra housing (p/n 2200) for it as it is rather a pain to switch between the open seat and the closed seat. Having the extra housing allows you to have one setup with the open seat, and the other for the closed seat. This allows for quicker use, especially for woodturning tools. |
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DBS-22 DBS-22 Drill Bit Sharpening Attachment - if you come across one of these, you have hit the mother lode. This is probably the greatest jig made by Tormek. This jigs value comes into play with these scenarios:
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SC-60 SC-60 Scissors Jig - this is the new model and offers some very nice usability features, making it a nice improvement over the SVX-150. |
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SVX-150 SVX-150 Scissors Jig - this jig was replaced by the SC-60. This jig gets used more often than I thought it would: my wife asks me to resharpen her utility scissors relatively frequently. She does not ask for much, so I am happy that I can provide this service for her. This was replaced by SC-60 which has some very nice improvements. |
These are listed alphabetically, not by any choice or other preference. Where they are grouped together, it is because they are related in use.
ADV-50D shown in use ADV-50D Diamond Truing Tool - This should be replaced as fast as you can. As stated in an old Army video (about a very different topic), "don't walk, run" to your nearest Tormek dealer to replace this. I was never able to re-true my grindstones well with it, and subsequently did not re-true the grindstones as often as I should have. I found that, once I upgraded to the TT-50, the process was MUCH easier and I re-grade the stones now when they should be. There was a TT-50 model at one time which re-used the diamond bit from the ADV-50 (the ADV-D), but I'm not sure if that is available any more. In any case, do not toss the diamond bit. The one I have has been in use since 2002 and does not need replacement, but having a spare would not be bad. This was replaced by TT-50 which has some very significant improvements. |
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ADV-D ADV-D Exchange Diamond Bit for TT-50 - this is the part which holds the diamond bits used for re-truing the grindstone. It is used on the TT-50 (or the ADV-50D). Some have noted that there seems to be very few diamond chips in this. Not to worry: what is there will get the job done. |
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AWT-250 AWT-250 Advanced Water Trough - this is a nice improvement over the older, original water trough, as it reduces the water spilt onto your workbench. The removable drip cover included with this is a nice feature. This works on the older 250 mm machines (SuperGrind 2000 & T-7); it will not work on the T-8. The T-8 requires the R-3090 Water Trough. |
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BGM-100 BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mounting Set - if you have a bench grinder, this allows you to use the Tormek jigs on that machine. I use it when reshaping a tool where the heat is less of an issue (e.g., a new HSS bowl gouge). Using the Tormek jig on the bench grinder ensures the resulting ground surface is very close to what will be achieved on the Tormek. |
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HB-10 Tormek Handbook - new machines come with one, and it is a very useful handbook. The original books were hard back; the newer ones are spiral-bound paper back. As new jigs are introduced, the handbook is updated to incorporate the relevant instructions.If the you don't have one for your machine, you can register your machine at the Tormek site, and then they will provide you a link to a PDF copy. |
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HTK-00 HTK-00 Storage Tray for Hand Tool Kit - this is an insert for the TC-800 Tormek Case and TS-740 Sharpening Station. |
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MB-100 MB-100 Multi-Base - a nice accessory if you need flat grinds. It was replaced by MB-102. The big improvement in the MB-102 is the front vertical base capability (which is quite nice). You really don't need the MB-100 and the MB-102, but I would not discard this one if you add the MB-102: it is useful to have two so they can be setup differently if that is needed. This was replaced by MB-102 which provides the front vertical base capability. |
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MB-102 MB-102 Multi-Base - this is used to enable use of the Tormek jigs on the side of the grinding wheel. It is a nice accessory if you need flat grinds. It also enables functionality like was provided by the front vertical base (FVB) which was pioneered others, and institutionalised by the late Dr. Vadim Kraichuk. |
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MH-380 MH-380 Machine Cover - whilst not necessary, it is a nice accessory for keeping your machine more dust-free, especially in a woodworking shop. The big benefit it provides is helping to keep the drive wheel working as it should by helping to keep dust out of the machine. Some of the earlier machines (e.g., the SuperGrinds) had a yellow version of this cover. |
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MSK-200 MSK-200 Stainless Steel Shaft - this is the replacement shaft for the older 200 mm machines (SuperGrind 1200, T-3, & T-4). It includes the EZLock nut for holding the grindstone on the machine. It is a definite improvement. |
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MSK-250 MSK-250 Stainless Steel Shaft - this is the replacement shaft for the older 250 mm machines (SuperGrind 2000, T-7, & T-8). It includes the EZLock nut for holding the grindstone on the machine. It is a definite improvement. |
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OWC-1 OWC-1 Tormek Converter - This allows use of Tormek jigs on bench grinder with a Wolverine style system. It is similar to the BGM-100 in that regard. I am not sure if the XB-100 is included with this or not. |
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R-3090 R-3090 Water Trough - this is the water trough used on the T-8. Other styles of water troughs will not work on the T-8. |
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RB-180 RB-180 Rotating Base - this is a nice accessory. It enables the machine to be rotated much easier, allowing the sharpener to switch between the horizontal and vertical positions in a snap. If this turns roughly, clean it up, and add a lubricant such as 3-in-1 Dry Lube. |
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RM-533 RM-533 Rubber Work Mat - This helps keep water off the platform on which your Tormek sits. |
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SQ-90 SQ-90 Small Square - this little tool is more handy than it looks. It is great for ensuring the blades are set squarely in the SE-77 (among other things). |
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SVD-005 SVD-005 Upgrade kit for SVD-180 - this added the ability to sharpen carbide cutters to the SVD-180. Rather than purchasing this, purchase the SVD-186-R. |
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T8-00 T8-00 Storage Tray for Tormek T-8 Accessaries - this is an insert for the TC-800 Tormek Case and TS-740 Sharpening Station. |
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TC-800 TC-800 Tormek Case - this is a case which uses the standard Tormek inserts. It is useful if your approach to tool management and storage uses such approaches (like the Festool Systainer). |
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TF-2 TF-2 Tilt Feet - These were developed to add a small tilt to the machine when sharpening, reducing the water drops onto the Tormek machine. The Tormek Sharpening Class #27 talks about some additional uses for these, including for use as spacers when removing the grindstone, and for marking the USB's insertion point. Rather interestingly, Tormek provided the STL file for use to 3D print these. |
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TNT-00 TNT-00 Storage Tray for Woodturner’s Kit - this is an insert for the TC-800 Tormek Case and TS-740 Sharpening Station. |
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TS-740 TS-740 Sharpening Station - this is like the Craftsman-style metal tool boxes, only designed specifically for the Tormek. It is especially useful if you have a shop with limited space as you can fit most everything into it, and hang your extra grinding wheels on the outside. The inserts (e.g, HTK-00, T8-00, & TNT-00) fit into it, making storage of your tools neater. |
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TT-50 Truing Tool - if you use the SG-250, SB-250, or SJ-250 grindstones (i.e., not the diamond grinding wheels), this is a necessary. It is a HUGE upgrade from the ADV-50D. |
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TTS-100 TTS-100 Turning Tool Setter - this was developed for the woodturner, but has uses far beyond that. It is used for setting the distance from the grinding wheel to the universal support bar at one of two standard distances. It is a great accessory. Be sure to mark lines on the outside edge of the wheels so you can more easily tell if they are turning. |
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US-103 US-103 Universal Support Bar (USB) - this is the USB for the 200 mm machines (SuperGrind 1200, T-3, & T-4), but can be used in the 250 mm machines also: the top, horizontal bar is just 10mm shorter. It includes the threaded leg for micro adjust. I keep one with a collar on it setting the USB distance at the TTS-100 hole A, and another at the TTS-100 hole B. These are used with the diamond grinding wheels, and has greatly shortened the setup time for resharpening woodturning tools. The top of the US-103 is 295 mm (11 ⅝”) wide, 155 mm (6 ¼”) high. The original USB for the 200 mm machines did not have one leg threaded for a micro adjustment. If you have one of those, do not discard it. Consider dedicating it for a specific use as discussed above. |
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US-105 US-105 Universal Support Bar (USB) - this is the USB for the 250 mm machines (SuperGrind 2000, T-7, & T-8). It includes the threaded leg for micro adjust. The top of the US-105 is 310 mm (12 ⅛”) wide, 155 mm (6 ¼”) high. The original USB for the 250 mm machines did not have one leg threaded for a micro adjustment. If you have one of those, do not discard it. Consider dedicating it for a specific use as discussed above in the comments regarding the US-103. |
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US-430 US-430 Universal Support Extended - this USB has a longer horizontal bar and longer legs. The longer top bar is useful when sharpening longer knives and machetes. The longer legs makes sharpening wider blades like cleavers easier. The top of the US-430 is 436 mm (17 ⅛”) wide, 212 mm (8 ⅜) high. |
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USS-2 USS-2 Mounting Kit for Universal Support - these are used on older Tormek grinders to enable use of the USB in the vertical position. |
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WM-200 AngleMaster - this is the original accessory used to set the grinding angle, compensating for the wear of the grinding wheel. I also like that this accessory has the notches along the edges to quickly assess the edge angle. The newer version has a scale used when using the MB-100 or MB-102 to sharpen using the side of the grinding wheel. It is pooh-poohed by many as being a bit crude, but it useful when a quick-and-dirty sharpening is needed. If something more accurate is needed, then the sharpie method is preferred. Alternatively, you can use one of the many calculators purported to make setting exact angles easier. |
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WT-200 WT-200 Water Trough - this is the newest water trough for the 200 mm machines (SuperGrind 1200, T-3, & T-4). |
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WT-250 WT-250 Water Trough - this is the original water trough for the 250 mm machines (SuperGrind 2000 & T-7). It is not for the T-8. If you need a new water trough for your T-7 or SuperGrind 2000, this is the replacement part. I am not sure this is available, so do consider the AWT-250 Advanced Water Trough. |
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XB-100 XB-100 Support Base - this accessory was designed for the original SuperGrind 2000s which only had the vertical supports for the USB. If you have one of those machines, you should add this functionality. Also, some later SuperGrind 2000s had a base which only had one thumb screw in this part. This can replace that part, providing two thumb screws. Finally, some have used this to make front vertical bases (FVBs), but the MB-102 is better for that now. |
